Coffee is part of daily life in Vietnam. From tiny plastic stools on the pavement to hidden cafes on the upper floors of old apartment blocks, people meet, work and watch the world go by over a small glass of strong, sweet coffee. Vietnam is also one of the largest coffee producers in the world, second only to Brazil, and its coffee culture is unlike anywhere else.
This guide to Vietnamese coffee explains how it is made, the drinks you should try, from iced coffee with condensed milk to Hanoi’s famous egg coffee, and how to enjoy cafe culture like a local.
A short history
Coffee was introduced by French missionaries and planters in the 19th century. Fresh milk was scarce, so sweetened condensed milk became the standard partner for strong coffee, a habit that shaped the Vietnamese style. Today most Vietnamese coffee is Robusta, grown in the Central Highlands around Buon Ma Thuot; it is strong, bold and high in caffeine. Arabica is grown in smaller amounts, especially around Da Lat.
The phin filter
Traditional Vietnamese coffee is brewed with a phin, a small metal filter placed on top of the glass. Ground coffee is pressed inside, hot water is added, and the coffee drips slowly into the glass below, often onto a layer of condensed milk. It takes a few minutes, which is part of the ritual: you wait, chat and watch the drops fall.
Coffee drinks to try
- Ca phe sua da – Iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk, the classic Vietnamese coffee and the perfect drink in the heat.
- Ca phe den da – Black iced coffee, often with a little sugar, strong and refreshing.
- Bac xiu – A Saigon favourite with more milk than coffee, gentle and creamy.
- Ca phe trung (egg coffee) – Strong coffee topped with a thick, sweet cream of whipped egg yolk and condensed milk, invented in Hanoi in the 1940s.
- Ca phe muoi (salt coffee) – From Hue: coffee topped with a lightly salted cream, sweet and savoury at the same time.
- Ca phe dua (coconut coffee) – Coffee blended with coconut milk and ice, like a coffee smoothie.
- Sua chua ca phe – Yoghurt topped with coffee, a surprisingly delicious combination popular in Hanoi.
Our tip
Vietnamese coffee is strong. If you are sensitive to caffeine, ask for less coffee (it ca phe) or try bac xiu, which has more milk. Iced coffee is usually served with a glass of free iced tea, tra da, on the side.
Cafe culture
Vietnamese cafes range from street-side stalls with low stools facing the traffic to stylish modern coffee shops, garden cafes and rooftop terraces. Many of the most charming are hidden: up a narrow staircase in an old house in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, or on several floors of an old apartment block in Saigon, each floor occupied by a different cafe.
People sit for hours, and nobody rushes you. Morning coffee is a social ritual, and it is common to see groups of friends chatting, playing cards or simply watching the street.
Where to drink coffee
- Hanoi: egg coffee in the Old Quarter, coffee by Hoan Kiem Lake and yoghurt coffee in the French Quarter.
- Hue: salt coffee, the city’s own speciality.
- Hoi An: riverside cafes and coffee in old merchant houses.
- Saigon: street coffee on tiny stools, bac xiu, and cafes in old apartment blocks.
- The Central Highlands: coffee plantations around Buon Ma Thuot and Da Lat.
About weasel coffee
You may see ca phe chon, or weasel coffee, made from beans eaten and passed by civets. Traditionally wild, much of it today comes from caged animals kept in poor conditions, and many products sold as weasel coffee are not genuine. We recommend avoiding it and enjoying the many excellent ordinary coffees instead.
Buying coffee to take home
- Buy whole beans or ground coffee from a reputable roaster or a busy local shop.
- A metal phin filter is an inexpensive and light souvenir.
- Check whether the coffee is Robusta, Arabica or a blend, and whether it is roasted with butter or flavourings, as some traditional roasts are.
- Pack coffee in your checked luggage in sealed bags.
How to make Vietnamese coffee at home
- Put two tablespoons of condensed milk in a heatproof glass.
- Place the phin on the glass and add about two to three tablespoons of medium-coarse ground coffee.
- Pour a little hot water to let the coffee bloom for 30 seconds, then press the inner lid lightly.
- Fill the phin with hot water, cover it and wait four to five minutes while the coffee drips.
- Stir well, and pour over a glass full of ice for ca phe sua da.
The slow drip is the secret. If the coffee drips too fast, press the lid a little harder next time; if it barely drips, loosen it or use a coarser grind.
Tea culture too
Coffee may be famous, but tea is just as important in Vietnam. Green tea is served free in many restaurants and offered to guests in every home, and northern provinces such as Thai Nguyen and Ha Giang produce excellent green and wild Shan tuyet teas. In Hanoi, small street tea stalls with low stools are a classic meeting place, often with a plate of sunflower seeds on the side.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Vietnamese coffee?
Strong coffee, usually Robusta, brewed slowly through a small metal filter called a phin and often served with sweetened condensed milk, hot or over ice.
What is egg coffee?
A Hanoi speciality of strong coffee topped with a thick cream of whipped egg yolk and condensed milk, invented in the 1940s.
Why is Vietnamese coffee so strong?
Most Vietnamese coffee is Robusta, which has more caffeine and a bolder taste than Arabica, and it is brewed slowly and served concentrated.
How do you order iced coffee with milk in Vietnamese?
Ask for ca phe sua da.
Plan Your Trip With Us
Taste Vietnamese coffee with a local guide on our street food walks, from egg coffee in Hanoi to iced coffee in Saigon.
